08:43h at the Gîte: I wake up and after using the restroom, I notice the strong, distinct odor of sulfur in my urine. I’ll attribute that to the snails from last night. Today also happens to be my birthday, which, normally, I never do much in terms of celebration (other than going around and getting free scoops from Ben & Jerry’s) since this time of summer is when many are traveling. Even my “half-birthday” falls during winter break. I just can’t win.
I think back to my favorite birthday meal, which must have been when I was 11 or 12, dining at the Raven Grill in Houston at the suggestion of my father (I likely requested to go somewhere else). Wonderful grilled salmon that evening (which was also the featured meal for my 15th birthday on a family trip to Alaska).
10:01h in Pupillin: We arrive at Jean-Michel Petit’s winery, Domaine de Renardiere, where the scenery is remarkable. We learn of the ancient origins of the land and how soil formation differs from block to block – one had a soil formation difference of 80 million years. The differences in the soil will have profound effects on the grapes according to Jean-Michel. Created in 1990, his winery covers seven hectares of land, producing 35,000 bottles of wine per year and has 16 different types of wine (half red and half white).
I think back to my favorite birthday meal, which must have been when I was 11 or 12, dining at the Raven Grill in Houston at the suggestion of my father (I likely requested to go somewhere else). Wonderful grilled salmon that evening (which was also the featured meal for my 15th birthday on a family trip to Alaska).
10:01h in Pupillin: We arrive at Jean-Michel Petit’s winery, Domaine de Renardiere, where the scenery is remarkable. We learn of the ancient origins of the land and how soil formation differs from block to block – one had a soil formation difference of 80 million years. The differences in the soil will have profound effects on the grapes according to Jean-Michel. Created in 1990, his winery covers seven hectares of land, producing 35,000 bottles of wine per year and has 16 different types of wine (half red and half white).
Jean-Michel mentions there are 6600 vines per hectare and spacing is important – allowing each plant to absorb the adequate amount of nutrients. The wines are aged in new oak barrels, at least 10 months. Jean-Michel views the vineyard as “the most important part of wine production” based on the challenges of producing the right amount and quality of grapes. “The grower is part of the terroir.”
One thing that stood out was the prevalence of grass in between vines in some of the blocks. The grass, which I had either never seen or noticed at previous visits to vineyards, is deliberate: it serves to prevent erosion and give competition to the vine when it is young.
One thing that stood out was the prevalence of grass in between vines in some of the blocks. The grass, which I had either never seen or noticed at previous visits to vineyards, is deliberate: it serves to prevent erosion and give competition to the vine when it is young.
“It is good to have competition…so the vines will be stronger.”
-Jean-Michel Petit
11:32h in Pupillon: Time to taste Jean-Michel's wines. We had the opportunity to try 10 different varieties he has produced, including one as old as 19 years. With globalization, Jean-Michel says that there are obligations to make more of the popular wines, and thus wines start to “taste the same” whether produced in South Africa, France, or Australia. Jean-Michel believes in the small-growers, anti-corporate model; he feels that France is “one of the countries where we can still have small growers” where investors are not necessary to dictate output. He believes that it is ”very important to try and keep that,” that it is ”part of the tradition” and he hopes the next generations of wine producers will understand this and remain small.
13:16h in Pupillon: Absolutely delicious meal at Le Grapiot. Easily one of the best I have had in lifetime, even more special that it was on my birthday. Every item was so delicately flavored from the beginning through dessert. Upon being seated the tasting began with an assortment of items on a wooden plank: thinly sliced sausage along with a cup of light yellow Comte cheese “sticks”. The sausage, with a strong smoky flavor, was not overly greasy. The Comte sticks were a treat: they appeared to be fried, but Claire clarified that they were in fact grated and toasted. These could be sold in a bag and devoured as snacks – the taste was vastly different from a slice of Comté fresh from the wheel.
13:16h in Pupillon: Absolutely delicious meal at Le Grapiot. Easily one of the best I have had in lifetime, even more special that it was on my birthday. Every item was so delicately flavored from the beginning through dessert. Upon being seated the tasting began with an assortment of items on a wooden plank: thinly sliced sausage along with a cup of light yellow Comte cheese “sticks”. The sausage, with a strong smoky flavor, was not overly greasy. The Comte sticks were a treat: they appeared to be fried, but Claire clarified that they were in fact grated and toasted. These could be sold in a bag and devoured as snacks – the taste was vastly different from a slice of Comté fresh from the wheel.
Melon, chevre, and ham salad
The second course was perfect. The melon was intensely juicy, extraordinarily sweet and the ham was well-flavored, not too overpowering and texture not too tough. The salad had a tremendous salty, spicy vinaigrette that complemented the leaves, while the creamy texture of the chevre built the texture of the dish while adding to the overall enjoyment.
Every bit of the dessert was delightful; the items – whipped cream, cookie, fruit, ice cream – was well plated and even the mint was refreshing. There was the added embarrassment of having the restaurant bring out a plate with candle, followed by the singing of “Joyeux Anniversaire”.
15:19h in Arbois: After the meal, our group walked around the town, enjoying the sites, including the Maison Pasteur, where Louis Pasteur lived throughout his lifetime, and a stroll through the lovely 12th century Saint Just church. Later came an answer to the puzzling question of "why are there random shoes and clothing scattered throughout the town?" This answer to this was that Arbois was holding its annual Women’s Festival. Of course. Interesting is the best way to describe the decorations in preparation for the event (as if being around all women throughout the trip wasn't already enough).
18:15h near the Gîte: Time for the absinthe tasting. During the first meal as a group during this trip, the topic of absinthe came up in conversation during a discussion on champagne. Some had asked why it was that absinthe was ultimately banned and the overall history behind the mysterious drink. I recall reading about the history in relation to competition with the wine industry and it was not until recently (2000) that the ban on absinthe – once the national drink of France around the time of the First World War – was lifted.
The "dangers" of absinthe were, for the most part, developed from hysteria over the uncertain effects of wormwood, part of the plant which makes up the absinthe. This supposedly hallucinogenic ingredient is not allowed in the present-day process of making absinthe, so what we consumed as a group was essentially very strong alcohol.
15:19h in Arbois: After the meal, our group walked around the town, enjoying the sites, including the Maison Pasteur, where Louis Pasteur lived throughout his lifetime, and a stroll through the lovely 12th century Saint Just church. Later came an answer to the puzzling question of "why are there random shoes and clothing scattered throughout the town?" This answer to this was that Arbois was holding its annual Women’s Festival. Of course. Interesting is the best way to describe the decorations in preparation for the event (as if being around all women throughout the trip wasn't already enough).
18:15h near the Gîte: Time for the absinthe tasting. During the first meal as a group during this trip, the topic of absinthe came up in conversation during a discussion on champagne. Some had asked why it was that absinthe was ultimately banned and the overall history behind the mysterious drink. I recall reading about the history in relation to competition with the wine industry and it was not until recently (2000) that the ban on absinthe – once the national drink of France around the time of the First World War – was lifted.
The "dangers" of absinthe were, for the most part, developed from hysteria over the uncertain effects of wormwood, part of the plant which makes up the absinthe. This supposedly hallucinogenic ingredient is not allowed in the present-day process of making absinthe, so what we consumed as a group was essentially very strong alcohol.
Bonnie, the mountain man, serving absinthe
At the tasting we try an assortment of the mostly green, highly-alcoholic beverage. As I see it, the allure behind absinthe tasting is the experience of it – as a social event, sitting and watching a lost art that is the dripping of ice-cold water onto a sugar cube through a slotted-spoon, mixing with the liquor to create a cloudy emulsification.
Since someone mentioned it was my birthday, Bonnie (the strange mountain man/barkeep) went behind the counter and offered me something "special". "This is real absinthe" he whispered as I was served. I sipped it cautiously over the course of a half hour and, much to the disappointment of my peers, I did not succumb to any out of body experience other than a mild intoxication – at 84% alcohol, this variety was likely not "real" absinthe either, rather it was likely just Bonnie’s personal favorite (he did, after all, look like a guy who lives on a diet of absinthe.
Since someone mentioned it was my birthday, Bonnie (the strange mountain man/barkeep) went behind the counter and offered me something "special". "This is real absinthe" he whispered as I was served. I sipped it cautiously over the course of a half hour and, much to the disappointment of my peers, I did not succumb to any out of body experience other than a mild intoxication – at 84% alcohol, this variety was likely not "real" absinthe either, rather it was likely just Bonnie’s personal favorite (he did, after all, look like a guy who lives on a diet of absinthe.
20:15h at the Gîte: As it is pizza night, I am overjoyed with the opportunity to knead fresh dough and, later, make the mustard vinaigrette for salads which Claire instructed me how to do earlier in the week. I am also fairly certain that everyone wrongly assumed I was still under the influence of the absinthe throughout the night, but I genuinely cherished the opportunity to be part of the food-producing process – even though this was not a cooking class.
Fresh pizza with plenty of toppings
Much to the dismay of Claire, I decided I needed "everything" on my pizza – can't refuse tasty food. Even though I was more than full, I somehow managed to ingest the remainder of the personal pizza (each pizza was intended to serve four people). Clearly the most I have eaten in months. Dessert consisted of fresh-picked cherries from a friend of Claire’s. The "Pigeon’s Heart" variety of cherry was the best; extraordinarily sweet and flavorful.
Overall, great birthday for food.
Overall, great birthday for food.